Horse Care Finder
Feeding & Nutrition 5 Min Read August 27, 2026

Basic Horse Nutrition: What Every Owner Should Know

A brown horse grazing in a green pasture under overcast skies

Equine nutrition is simpler than the supplement aisle suggests. Get forage, water and salt right and most horses need very little else.

Forage first, always

A horse’s digestive system is built for a steady trickle of fibre, not large grain meals. Aim for roughly 1.5 to 2 percent of bodyweight in forage daily. Skimping on it invites ulcers, colic and stable vices.

Water and salt

Clean, unfrozen water at all times, and loose salt available free-choice. Dehydration is a quiet cause of impaction colic, particularly in winter when horses drink less.

When to add concentrate

Add grain when forage alone cannot maintain condition and workload — a hard-working horse, a hard keeper, a broodmare in late gestation. Many horses in light work need nothing more than good hay and a vitamin-mineral balancer to fill nutritional gaps.

Change slowly

The gut microbiome adapts to a diet over days, not hours. Any change to hay or feed should be phased over seven to ten days. Sudden change is one of the more preventable causes of colic.

Weigh the feed, not the scoop

A scoop is a volume; a ration is a weight. Two feeds of identical appearance can differ substantially in density, which means a scoop of one is not a scoop of another. Weigh your scoop once on a kitchen scale and write the figure on the bin. Do the same with a typical section of hay. This single habit removes most accidental over- and underfeeding, and makes any conversation with a vet or nutritionist far more productive.

The easy keeper and the hard keeper

Most barns contain both. The easy keeper holds weight on air and is the horse most at risk from unrestricted spring grass; slow-feed nets, a grazing muzzle and restricted turnout protect it better than cutting forage below what the gut needs. The hard keeper usually benefits from more forage first, better-quality hay second, and added fat before added grain. Reaching for a high-starch feed is often the least effective answer to a horse that will not hold condition.

Condition scoring beats the scale

Learn to assess condition by hand, over the ribs, along the neck, across the withers and around the tailhead. Weight changes slowly enough that you will not notice it day to day, which is exactly why a deliberate monthly assessment catches drift long before it becomes visible.

Frequently asked questions

Does every horse need grain?

No. Many maintain healthy weight and energy on forage alone, especially in light work. Grain fills a gap that may not exist.

How much hay does a horse need daily?

Roughly 1.5 to 2 percent of bodyweight in forage. For a 1,000 lb horse that is about 15 to 20 lbs of hay.

How do I transition to new feed?

Gradually, over seven to ten days, mixing increasing amounts of the new with decreasing amounts of the old.

Are supplements necessary?

Not by default. They are most useful for a specific identified issue, once forage, water and salt are already right.

Related: how to body condition score your horse.

Related: what horses eat.

General information only. Horse Care Finder provides practical, educational guides for horse owners. This content is not a substitute for professional veterinary, medical, legal or other qualified advice. If you are concerned about your horse’s health or believe your horse may need medical attention, contact a licensed veterinarian. Any prices shown are general estimates that vary by location, provider and circumstances. See our Editorial Policy and Disclaimer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does every horse need grain?

No. Many maintain healthy weight and energy on forage alone, especially in light work. Grain fills a gap that may not exist.

How much hay does a horse need daily?

Roughly 1.5 to 2 percent of bodyweight in forage. For a 1,000 lb horse that is about 15 to 20 lbs of hay.

How do I transition to new feed?

Gradually, over seven to ten days, mixing increasing amounts of the new with decreasing amounts of the old.

Are supplements necessary?

Not by default. They are most useful for a specific identified issue, once forage, water and salt are already right.